AT Nobu New York, getting a table is a problem “unless you’re Cameron Diaz”. That was Zagat’s description of the high-end Japanese restaurant co-owned by actor Robert De Niro, which allows up to one month's advance reservations.
It is, according to a newspaper columnist, New York’s legendary inaccessible restaurant.
More shock-and-awe news: at Masa in midtown Manhattan, cancellations made less than 48 hours before the reservation would mean a fine of US$150 (RM490) per person.
But to the moneyed folk, that is a paltry sum because the average cost of a dinner for one (plus drink and tips) at Masa is about US$485 (RM1,584).
Nobu and Masa are among “America’s Top Japanese Restaurants”, according to the latest guide from Zagat Survey, which is based on views submitted by 139,000 respondents in 49 cities.
The little red guidebook is a collaboration between Zagat Survey and the Organisation to Promote Japanese Restaurants Abroad (Jiro).
The Japanese have, indeed, invaded the American taste bud with an estimated 10,000 places throughout the country where people can go for their sushi and sake. In New York City, there are 800 to 1,000 Japanese restaurants.
“Just 10 to 15 years ago, the cuisine was not on the map as far as the American taste was concerned,” said Tim Zagat, the co-founder and chief executive officer of Zagat Survey. “Back then, mention Asian cuisine and people would think of Chinese food.”
The menu, so to speak, has changed drastically. “In New York, Japanese cuisine has far surpassed any other Asian food,” he said.
According to him, Japanese restaurants ranked among the top 20 in the city, getting much higher ratings than the top Chinese restaurants.
“Almost every major American city voted Japanese ahead of others,” he said. It is number one in cities such as Baltimore, Denver, Austin, San Diego, Salt Lake City, Washington DC and Seattle.
In most other cities, residents would name a Japanese restaurant as second or third on the roll of honour.
Zagat listed four factors for the Japanese appeal: the discipline and professionalism of Japanese chefs, fresh ingredients, elegant presentation and healthy preparation methods.
“Many of the best Western chefs in the United States have been extremely influenced by Japanese culinary techniques,” Zagat said.
Launched in 1979, Zagat Survey provides reviews on the best places to eat, drink, play and stay. It publishes guides covering 100 countries. No establishment is allowed to pay to be included in the survey.
Ordinary folk, however, may find Zagat’s recommendations quite out of reach in terms of pricing.
“I haven’t been to many of the restaurants that they recommend because they are so expensive,” said one Japanese correspondent.
Besides, nothing compares to what he gets in Tokyo. “It’s not so fresh here,” he said.
It is a view shared by food writer Asao Teshirogi.
“Japanese food is very expensive here. The quality is not as good as what we get back home, but I would say it is still quite good here overall,” she said.
“Ramen, for example, is a very popular casual food in Japan but even at the most expensive place, you can eat it for less than US$10 (R32.62). A basic ramen would cost about US$6 (RM19.58). Here in New York, it would set you back at least US$9 (RM29.37), which means US$12 (RM39.15) including tax and tip.”
At one new ramen restaurant, she ended up paying US$14 (RM45.69), double what she normally pays in Japan.
The good news, however, is that more ramen shops are opening here.
“Until recently, we could not find decent ramen in New York. And the new ramen shops are getting better,” she said.
She has no comments about Nobu or Masa since she has not patronised them yet. “But I assume that high-end restaurants here are as good as those in Japan.”
Jiro, the collaborator in Zagat’s guide on America’s top Japanese restaurants, noted that there was now a worldwide boom in Japanese food.
“Many people in Japan believe that it is time to take advantage of this trend,” it said, which was why the organisation was formed last year.
Its main agenda is to accelerate the promotion of Japanese food culture to the world. So, watch out. The Japanese are coming. Again.
